Few fruits are as popular with the home gardener as strawberries. They
require very little growing space, and can be grown in almost any
garden. The plants make a good ground cover, the flowers are
attractive, and the fruits are delicious. They can be grown in
containers, raised beds or conventional garden rows.
There are three types of strawberry plants: June-bearing, Ever-bearing, and Day Neutral.
June-bearing plants produce one large harvest and quit. Whether they
actually bear during the month of June depends on your climate zone.
Lets just say they bear in late spring.
Ever-bearing plants don't actually bear forever, or even for the entire
season. The first harvest in late spring is usually followed by a
period of rest and another crop in the fall. Sometimes they'll produce a
small harvest in the interim.
Day Neutral plants are insensitive to length of day and will keep on
flowering as long as temperatures remain above 35 degrees F and below 85
degrees F.
Ever-bearing and Day Neutral plants usually produce smaller fruits than June-bearing plants.
Sometimes varieties are listed as early-season, mid-season, or
late-season. What this means for most gardeners is relatively
insignificant as the first harvest for all varieties is usually
separated by just a few days.
Choose varieties that are known to do well in your area. Your local
Cooperative Extension Service should be able to advise you. Purchase
virus-free plants produced by commercial growers. Plants obtained from
other gardeners may carry diseases that will infect your own patch.
Viruses passed from garden to garden will diminish plant vigor and
productiveness.
Fifty or so plants are sufficient for a family of four. If you want to
freeze or preserve some for later, you'll probably need one hundred
plants. One hundred plants will produce about 40 quarts of fruit.
Strawberries are usually treated as biennials, especially if grown in
rows, the plants being replaced every other year. If using this method,
do not allow the plants to form fruit the first year. Pick off flowers
as they form. The plants should be stronger and more productive the
second year. Ever-bearing plants are the exception; buds should be
removed until mid-summer of the first year. By then the plants should
be established well enough to produce a decent fall crop.
Plant in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Gardeners in
the Deep South often plant in the fall. The site should be exposed to
full sun (at least six hours per day) and be well-drained. If you do
not have such a place in your garden, consider planting in containers.
Strawberries need rich, organic, well-drained soil. The planting site
should be located in full sun. Cultivate the soil deeply and have the
soil tested. If you don't have your own soil test kit, you can take
your sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service. The charge is
usually very reasonable. Call them first for instructions. The pH
should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Amend the soil according to soil test
instructions. You'll probably need to incorporate compost or
fertilizer. If using synthetic fertilizer, broadcast it in the area a
couple of weeks before planting the strawberries.
When preparing the bed, remove all weeds because strawberries do not
compete well with them. A thorough job of weed and grass removal will
put the gardener well ahead of the competition. Some herbicides are
available which are approved for use in the edible garden, but I
recommend hand-weeding and mulch for weed suppression.
If planting in garden rows, space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows
three feet apart. The holes should be deep and wide enough to
accommodate the roots without crowding. Planting depth is very
important for the health of the plants. Crowns should be set at the
soil surface. Plants set too deeply will develop crown rot. Those set
too shallowly with the tops of the roots exposed are likely to dry out.
Strawberries send out many runners, producing new plants at the end of
each runner. Those that end up in the wrong place can be removed and
discarded or replanted elsewhere. More fruit may be produced if runners
are not allowed to form. Keep the area free of weeds.
Raised beds are recommended if your site is in full sun but lacks
optimal drainage. They also tend to be more productive for longer
periods of time. If planting in raised beds, the beds should be no
wider than three feet. Wider beds are more difficult to reach into for
harvesting and maintenance. To keep a vigorous strawberry bed, you
should also remove some of the older plants occasionally.
Well-maintained raised beds may produce vigorously for 5 or more years.
If planting in containers, keep in mind that growing conditions remain
the same. Strawberry jars and window boxes are very popular because
they provide ample drainage and are very attractive. Strawberry jars
are usually made of terra cotta with several pockets formed around the
sides for holding the plants.
Strawberry plants should receive at least one inch of water per week if
planted in rows or raised beds. More water may be necessary if the
plants are planted in containers in which the soil may dry faster.
Mulching with straw or compost helps to conserve water.
In colder regions, strawberries may also be protected during winter with
a layer of straw mulch. Freezing temperatures often cause soil
"heaving" which pushes the plants upward. Mulch can help to prevent it.
In spring, the mulch may be raked aside before growth begins, but left
around the plants to help keep the fruit clean.
Fall fertilizer application is recommended. A soil test will indicate
the type of fertilizer and the appropriate application rate.
Strawberries, like other garden plants, may be troubled with various
insects and diseases. Remedies, both organic and synthetic, are widely
available, but it is not within the scope of this article to review
products. Whether using organic or synthetic remedies, always follow
label instructions.
There are two simple, effective methods for disease and insect control:
crop rotation and companion planting. Crop rotation involves moving
the strawberry bed to a new location some distance from the older bed
when the plants lose vigor, thus leaving the pests behind. Companion
planting involves locating strawberries in close proximity to other
plants that repel insects attracted to strawberries. Similarly, certain
plants have beneficial effects upon strawberries. Companion planting
is especially appropriate for raised-bed gardening. Beans, borage,
comfrey, garlic, lettuce, onion and spinach are said to be good
companions to strawberries. On the other hand, strawberries do not do
well in the presence of cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and
cauliflower.
Discover the pleasure of growing and sharing your own home-grown strawberries. You'll be delighted.
John J Marshall
goGardenNow.com
John also blogs at
goGardenNow.blogspot.com.
