How To Grow AAS Winner 'Melemon' F1

AAS Winner 'Melemon' F1

The mission of All-America Selections is "To promote new garden varieties with superior garden performance judged in impartial trials in North America." To do that, AAS tries to "inform gardeners about the AAS Winners", so the organization produces excellent information about growing them.

I recently highlighted the new Melon 'Melemon' F1 AAS Winner in this blog, so here's some information from AAS I want to pass along to you.

"The earliness, high yield on healthy, strong plants and superior taste all contributed to this melon becoming an AAS Winner. Judges related the taste of this melon to honeydew but with a surprising and delicious tanginess. A uniform fruit shape makes it perfect for market growers as well as home gardeners. Each personal-sized fruit has refreshing crisp flesh and a unique sweet and tart taste."

AAS® Winner Data
Genus species: Cucumis melo L.
Common name: Piel de Sapo type melon
Unique qualities: Unique sweet-tart taste, fruits hold one month after harvest
Fruit weight: 4.5 pounds
Fruit Size:  6.5 inches in diameter, 6 inches in height
Fruit shape: Oblate
Fruit color: Green rind turns to chartreuse at maturity, white flesh
Foliage Color:  Green
Plant type: Vining
Plant height: 10 to 12 inches
Plant width: 28 inches
Garden location: Full sun
Garden spacing: 14 inches
Length of time to harvest: 70-80 days from transplant, 89-95 days from sowing seed
Light Needs: Full sun
Water Needs:  Normal
Season Type:  Warm Season
Staking Required:  YES
Closest comparisons on market: ‘Lambkin’ F1, ‘Kermit’ F1, ‘Saporosa’ F1"

As for other members of the species, soil pH should range from 6.1 to 7.5.

If you're thinking you'd like to plant melons next season, you should definitely consider 'Melemon' F1.

John Marshall
goGardenNow.com
goGardenNow.blogspot.com

Another question about poor muscadine grape yields

There is an old Muscadine vine at Mama's that grows the sweetest grapes I've ever tasted. The vine is strung east/west if that makes a difference. What I'm asking about is an oak tree at the west end of the vine. In the last 3 years when the vine buds out in the spring and fruit is forming it looks like we are going to have a bumper crop but most of the grapes will shed long before they are of any size. In your opinion does the oak need to be cut down or is there some additive that will stop the shedding? I have been told boron will take care of the problem.

Various factors can contribute to your problem. 

If grapes are forming but falling off, poor pollination isn't your problem.

Insufficient boron can be a problem. It's best to determine whether there's a deficiency by having leaf samples tested. Sandy soils with high pH are most likely to be deficient. You can take leaf and soil samples to your nearest Cooperative Extension Service office to test for boron. This link can help you find yours. http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/

Insufficient moisture can be a problem. Oaks tend to be heavy drinkers, so the oak could contribute to that. If the oak is casting a lot of shade on the grapes, that can be a problem, too.

Powdery mildew can cause flowers and small grapes to drop. It is most active when the temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees F. It can occur in sun or shade, but shade encourages it. Powdery mildew looks like a gray, dusty powder on the flowers/fruit. Fungicides can control it, but if you can eliminate contributing factors, do so.

Some insects (beetles and bugs) will feed on small grapes and flowers. Check in spring to see if they're present.

You mentioned the East/West orientation of your trellis. When planting in full sun, I prefer North/South orientation so that the vines can get sun on both sides of the trellis as the day progresses. Regardless of the orientation, full sun is always best.

John Marshall

goGardenNow.com

goGardenNow.blogspot.com 

I had almost no muscadine grapes. How can I get big yields?

I have a dozen muscadine grapes, all different varieties. This past summer they produced a very large amount of foliage but almost no grapes. I had very few spring blooms. Although I do not prune too closely, I have had grape yields in the past. I use only organic culture... How can I get big yields?

 There are a few things that can contribute to poor muscadine yields. But since you noted that you "do not prune too closely", I expect that's the problem. If you haven't pruned enough in the past, plants will produce a lot of thin, unproductive shoots. I suggest you prune closely this season, leaving only 3 or 4 buds per spur. In addition, reduce the number of spurs.

All-America Selections Announces Four More Winners for 2013

Geranium ‘Pinto™ Premium White to Rose’ F1 - Photo courtesy All-America Selections

On chilly and rainy days like this, gardeners like to sit at the kitchen table and dream about their future spring plantings. That's exactly what I'm doing. Next year's seed catalogs have't arrived yet, but I'm checking out the newest All-America Selections (AAS) winners for 2013. Each winner was trialed beside a few other similar varieties on the market, then analyzed with regard to taste, growth habit, disease resistance, and similar considerations to determine if they are actually better than those already available. Only superior plants are granted the AAS Award. After the 2012 trialing season, two melons, a tomato and a geranium are the latest to receive official AAS recognition.

Melon 'Melemon' F1 - Photo courtesy All-America Selections

Melon ‘Melemon’ F1 received the AAS 2013 Vegetable Award. It yields early and heavily on strong plants. Each fruit is just enough for one person to enjoy. The taste, judged to be superior, is comparable to a honeydew, but with delightful tanginess. The flesh is crisp and sweet. The uniform shape makes it ideal for commercial growers and home gardeners.

Watermelon 'Harvest Moon' F1 - Photo courtesy All-America Selections

Watermelon ‘Harvest Moon’ F1 also received the AAS 2013 Vegetable Award. It's a hybrid, triploid seedless melon similar to the popular heirloom variety, 'Moon and Stars', but the healthy vines are shorter. I ripens early with a higher yield. Fruits are medium-sized with sweet, pinkish-red flesh. The rind is dark green with yellow dots.

Tomato 'Jasper' F1 - Photo courtesy All-America Selections

Tomato, Cherry ‘Jasper’ F1 is the third AAS 2013 Vegetable Award Winner. High yields of sweet fruits of uniform size are produced on vigorous plants. In fact, the vines are so strong they require little or no fertilization. Add to that Jasper's high disease resistance to Late Blight, Fusarium 1 and 2, and Early Blight, and its resistance to weather-related stresses. The fruits stay on the vine well after ripening, and last longer after they've been picked.
Geranium ‘Pinto™ Premium White to Rose’ F1 (see photo above) is a AAS 2013 Bedding Plant Award Winner. Loads of early, long-lasting 5" blooms change color from white to rose. The plants are full and dense with well-branched stems and dark green foliage. Even in the extreme heat of last year's summer, 'Pinto Premium White to Rose' performed extremely well. Gardeners who want a care-free, colorful garden next summer should definitely plant this one.

When your seed catalogs arrive in the next few months, look for Melon 'Melemon' F1, Watermelon 'Harvest Mood' F1, Tomato 'Jasper' F1 and Geranium 'Pinto Premium White to Rose' F1. If you prefer to buy your plants already started at retail, request your favorite garden center to carry them.

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What is insecticidal soap? How does it work? Can I m ake it myself?

What is insecticidal soap? How does it work? Can I make it myself?

Insecticidal soaps are environmentally friendly formulations made from mineral or vegetable oils that kill soft-bodied insects either by suffocation or destroying their cells. Insecticidal soaps do not leave toxic residues. They must contact the insects to be effective.

Here's a quick and easy way to make insecticidal soap. Mix one cup of cheap vegetable oil with one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Do NOT use soaps formulated for automatic dishwashers because they may contain chemicals that can harm plants. Do NOT use soaps with bleach added. Add two teaspoons of the soap mixture per cup of warm water in a plastic spray bottle. Stir thoroughly. Test a bit of the mixture on a small part of the plant to assure that the mixture won't do damage to the plant. Spray only on cloudy days or before dusk. Hot sunlight combined with insecticidal soap can damage plants.

Results of Community Poll Ending 18 September, 2012

Our Community Poll ending 18 September asked the question, "Where do you garden?"

22% polled said "On my own property in the city."
33% said "On my own property in the suburbs."
45% said "On my own property in the country."
None replied "In a community garden shared with others."

I should have included the answer, "I don't garden." I don't know whether any visitors didn't answer for that reason.

For those who would like to garden but don't because they don't think they have the space for it, community gardens can solve the problem. The American Community Garden Association provides lots of help for those who'd like to find a community garden nearby or start one. Even if you already have a garden, you might want to get involved helping with a community garden so you can share the pleasure of gardening with others.

Return to Community Poll at goGardenNow.com.

Blueberries cure rustiness

Dr. Boli suggests a cure for rustiness.

John Marshall
goGardenNow.com
goGardenNow.blogspot.com

How close does a muscadine grape pollinator have to be and what would be a good pollinator?

How close does a pollinator have to be and what would be a good pollinator.

The nearer the better. Within 100' should be okay. Within 20' would be better. Plant one or two pollinators with the others and you should be okay. There are many good pollinators. Cowart, Carlos and Triumph are good.

John Marshall
goGardenNow.com
goGardenNow.blogspot.com

How do I prune musadines to run on a trellis, how and when to do I fertilize?

Growing up as a kid I enjoyed gathering and eating wild muscadines. I decided to try growing some myself. I planted 2 vines in April. How should I prune them to ensure they are trained to run on the trellis? What time of the year is the best time to prune the vines? What is the best type of fertilizer to use and when to use it as well as how much? I enjoyed your video on prunning your muscadines. Since mine are young plants I don't want to be to aggressive and lose my plants.

Beginning now (July), choose 1 shoot (the longest and strongest) to train as the trunk. The goal is for it to reach the trellis wire, which should be at 4' height. Tie it to a 4' long stake. Use plastic tape or cloth ribbon. Remove all other shoots growing around the base of the plant, and remove any shoots growing from the "trunk" that are emerging any lower than the trellis wire. You can do that now.

When the "trunk" vine reaches the trellis wire, clip off the upper end of it. This will encourage lateral branching along the trunk. Remove all shoots except for the top two. Those will be trained to the trellis wire to serve as arms.

You can prune to train (as mentioned above) any time of year. When pruning for fruit production, do it late winter or very early spring before growth begins.

10-10-10 fertilizer is about as good as any. Fertilize any time between early spring and mid summer. Amount depends on size/age of plant.  For specific recommendations, take a soil sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for analysis. The test results will include recommendations. 

I've grown clover for cover crop, and that worked well. I haven't needed to fertilize my vineyard in years.


John Marshall
goGardenNow.com
goGardenNow.blogspot.com

Is a you-pick-em vineyard feasible?

I enjoyed your great video on pruning vines. Thank you. I do have a question- I live in the west panhandle of Florida the soil is very poor, sandy, etc. Will grapes grow well  here? What prep needs doing before planting? I have 20 acres. Is a you-pick-em vineyard feasible?

 Muscadines should grow well in your area. I bet if you take a
walk in the woods you'll find some wild ones. But for advice specific to
your area, ask your Cooperative Extension agent. Follow this link and click
on the map of your state to find one near you.

http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/

It would also be a very good idea to take a soil sample of your site to the
extension office for a soil test. That should tell you what you might need
to add. Compost is always a good idea. Since your soil is sandy, a water
retentive gel will help to conserve water, especially if you don't have
irrigation.

A pick your own operation can be good, but will be more successful if you
are easily accessible by the public. Location, location, location. If you
plant all 20 acres in muscadines, you will probably have more than you need
for a pick-your-own. You'd better find additional markets.

How to construct a "tree of life" with muscadine grape vines

Hi John, found you on Youtube.  building a labyrinth and in the center of this labyrinth I want to create a dual effect.   

• A. Tree of Life
• B. DNA ladder symbolism.

I have installed a 24" x 8' terracotta pipe stood vertically.  consideration is to plant two muscadine plants spiraling up the turret to symbolize  DNA structure and have them create foliage and fruit at the top. 

Is this reasonable? what plant do you recommend that has a nice thick woody trunk leading up the turret?  At the turret base for the plants how much depth and width should i allow for soil?  Suggestions on how to trellis for strength and effect?  can you supply the plants at what cost plz?  location is Pilot Mountain NC.  27040

Also,  at the top of turret will be copper transitional piece to shoulder a 24" copper genesa crystal.  the turret is filled with quartz crystals inviting earth energy to flow and then broadcast by the genesa.


Thanks for asking. Your project sounds intriguing. Most muscadines should be cold hardy in your area, but you should check the hardiness of the varieties you consider. Some are hardier than others.

I don't sell muscadine vines any longer, but can recommend some growers to you.

Muscadines are shallow rooted, so soil depth shouldn't be much of an issue. But the roots can spread a long way. So long as you don't have pavement around them, they should be okay.

The trellis at top should be very sturdy. Muscadines live a long time. I imagine something like a steel umbrella. The steel post could fit inside the terra cotta turret. A round steel plate could be welded on top of the post with c-channel steel posts (or something similar) radiating outward. A steel ring, fitting around the outside of the turret, would provide support for braces (as I said, it would look like a big umbrella). This structure would be fabricated (find a welder/fabricator in your area) elsewhere and installed over the
turret.

The radiating arms (perhaps you have a number in mind) needn't be too long. Maybe 5' or 6' long.

Individual grape vine arms could be trained to the radiating arms. They could be fastened with plastic Ag-Lock fasteners.

The vine arms would be permanent. Lateral vines would be pruned annually to keep the tree neat and productive.

Grape vines would be easy to work with. Akebia quinata produces colorful flowers and edible fruit, but grows very quickly and may get away from you. Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta) should work, but seems to me that Vitis has more ancient lore and cultural interest.

You could also espalier fruit trees like apple or pear around the turret, but they would take longer and be more difficult to train.


( Readers may follow this project at: http://www.facebook.com/OdinstoneLabyrinth )


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A question about training muscadine vines to a single wire trellis.

I want to do a forty foot single wire trellis, planting a Carlos on one end and a Tara on the other.  Will this work and what should I do when they meet in the middle?  This is my first experience in planting scuppernong/muscadines.  Am I headed in the right direction?

 A single muscadine vine can produce 50 lbs of grapes. With two vines, you could have 100 lbs of grapes on the trellis. It should be able to bear the load. You could construct an H-brace on each end. This article on fence bracing from University of Wisconsin Extension shows how it's done.

But that may be more than is necessary for 2 vines. I suggest you install 3 steel fence posts 20' apart. That would give you a 40' row. String MAX-TEN 200 High-Tensile Trellis Wire between the posts. The wire should be 4' from the ground. Tighten the wire with a Hayes-style wire tightener. Install a duck-bill anchor at each end and attach to the end fence posts. That should give you enough support. You can buy Hi-Ten wire, tighteners and duck-bill anchors from Kencove.com if you can't find them locally.

Plant your vines 10' from each end. Train your vines up to the single wire trellis. Snip the growing tip (terminal bud) from the top of each vine. Select 2 arms per vine and train them to the wire growing in opposite directions.

Each arm should grow 10' long. When the Carlos and Tara arms meet, snip out the growing tips at the ends of the arms. Don't allow the Carlos and Tara arms to grow over each other.

You are on the right track.

A question about training young muscadine vines to a pergola

I have just become the coordinator for our school garden.  At the entrance is a pergola with a muscadine vine planted at each post.  They have been growing for 3-4 years.  At this point they are bushy, sprawling outward from posts, 3-4 feet tall, leafed out with tiny grapes already.  I am unsure if they have every been pruned.  It seems to me that they are too bushy at the entrance somewhat blocking the pathway.  I have never grown muscadines myself though I have picked them at grower's places.  I do not know how to proceed to help train them up the post and hopefully thin them at bottom? Move them?  Any advice or direction to instructions that would pertain to this particular type of situation would be helpful.

I'm assuming you want to grow them up the post.

At each post, sort through the tangle and select the longest vine. That will be your main trunk. Prune off all other vines from the main trunk. Tie the main trunk to the post with some 1" wide plastic tape. Train the main trunk to grow up the post by tying it as it grows upward. If the tape gets tight, cut it off and tie again loosely. It's not too late to prune. You'll probably lose some of the small grapes, but that's okay because the vine is too young to bear anyway. If allowed to bear, it will slow the upward growth process.

During the summer, new sprouts may grow along the trunk. Prune them off. You can simply rub them off if they are soft and young enough.

John Marshall
goGardenNow.com
goGardenNow.blogspot.com

Will my muscadine vines bleed to death?

I've pruned my muscadine grape vines, and water is dripping from the cuts. I was told they might bleed to death. Is that possible?

The water that's dripping is sap. The sap is running because it's spring, the weather is warming, and your vines are coming out of dormancy. There is no danger that your vines will "bleed" to death.

There is a possibility that orange slime mold might grow in the sap. You can read about that in another blog post. The slime mold won't harm your plants.

John J Marshall
goGardenNow.com

John also blogs at goGardenNow.blogspot.com.

Slime mold on muscadine vines.

"Hello, I live in the northeast corner of Alabama and in early Feb., I pruned our muscadine vines.  Two of the vines are still "bleeding" and forming an orange colored build-up.  Should I do something?  If so, what?  Thank you for your time,  D.L."

It's slime mold, a species of Fusarium. It grows in the sap. Looks bad but is harmless. When the sap stops running, the mold will dry and flake off.

That reminds me of another question I'm often asked about vines "bleeding". I'll deal with it in a separate post.

John J Marshall
goGardenNow.com

John also blogs at goGardenNow.blogspot.com.

Our new community poll about the U.S. economy and gardening

poll by twiigs.com

Pruning a fig tree to reduce its height.

I received the following inquiry a few weeks ago.

Mr. John, (We) have a very large fig tree. It's at least 15 feet tall, if not taller. When is the best time to prune it? ...I would like to prune it so I can reach all of the figs! ALL OF THEM. Just kidding. ...I heard it was good to prune them, but I won't if it isn't!  -C.K., Athens, GA.

Dear C.K., I'm assuming that your fig tree is vigorous and in good health. Since you want to prune your fig to reduce the height of the tree, you need to do it so it won't grow back to its present height too quickly. Timing is important. Spring pruning tends to stimulate new, rapid growth; summer pruning does not, so prune in late summer.

Prune in stages. Heavy pruning all at once tends to stimulate new, rapid growth; selective pruning in stages does not, so prune selectively in stages.

Heavy pruning will reduce your crop a lot. You don't want that. Selective pruning in stages will reduce your crop a little, so do that.

Here's how:

Resign yourself to the fact that this will be a two-year process. Resign yourself to the fact that you will lose some figs.

Prune from late June to mid-July.

Be sure your tools are sharp. Make clean cuts. Avoid making ragged wounds.

Determine how tall you want your fig tree to be. Select about 1/2 of the tallest limbs, and cut them back about 2 feet below the ultimate height you desire.

Always cut back to a point just above a node, if you can identify it. A "node" is a point on a limb or branch where growth emerges. If you cut midway between nodes, or just below a node, you'll leave a stub that will die and rot. The rotting tissue can invade healthy tissue; you don't want that.

While you're at it, remove any dead, diseased or damaged limbs by cutting them back to the nearest node or joint.

Next year, follow the same procedure, cutting back the remaining portion that's too tall.

Avoid fertilizing. It will only stimulate your fig tree to return to its original height.

FAQ: What garden tasks should I do in March?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Here are a few gardening tasks for March organized by region.

Northeast States: Frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous fruit trees, shrubs, vines; but avoid removing spring flower buds. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, and asparagus, if you haven’t already. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Plant bare-root fruit trees and shrubs. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-Atlantic States: Frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous fruit trees, shrubs, vines. Avoid removing spring-blooming flower buds. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary. Plant bare-root fruit trees and shrubs. Clean and oil garden tools.

Mid-South States: Late frost is possible. Continue pruning dormant deciduous fruit trees, shrubs, vines. Spray dormant oil on dormant fruit trees, if you haven’t done so yet. Fertilize fruit trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Finish dormant pruning of deciduous fruit trees, shrubs and vines. Do not spray fruit trees with pesticides if flowers are in bloom. For that matter, don’t spray any flowering shrub or tree with pesticides while flowers are in bloom. Fertilize fruiting shrubs, trees and small fruits.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Follow the same regimen as for Mid-Atlantic States.

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Cornell University releases new strawberry variety

"Cornell's newest and darkest strawberry variety -- Purple Wonder -- will make its debut at the Philadelphia International Flower Show March 5 through an exclusive licensing agreement with seed giant W. Atlee Burpee Co." Read more about Purple Wonder Strawberry.

Creeping Raspberry - A Perfect Fit For The Edible Landscape

Creeping Raspberry, also known as Creeping Bramble, Creeping Rubus and Crinkle-Leaf Creeper, is an evergreen ground cover shrub native to Taiwan. It goes by more than one botanical name:  Rubus pentalobus or R. calycinoides.  "Rubus" means red, and is the name given to the bramble genus.  "Penatlobus" refers to its five-lobed leaves.  "Calycinoides" refers to the very obvious calyx of the flower and fruit.  Though it is a vigorous grower, it should not be considered invasive.  It does not climb and is not rampant.

The first thing you'll notice about the plant is that it grows very low to the ground.  Its height is only about 2 to 3 inches.  As mentioned before, the leaves are five-lobed and have a puckered surface.  Foliage color is medium to light green during growing season and burgundy in fall and winter.  Small white flowers appear in spring, followed by edible fruits.  Creeping Raspberry is truly a ground cover plant for all seasons.

From goGardenNow

The plant is excellent as a ground cover and for erosion control in small to medium size areas.  It is also very useful in container gardens, so gardeners with limited space can also enjoy it.  The runners cascade nicely over the edges of planters, pots and even hanging baskets.  Creeping Raspberry is a perfect fit for the edible landscape.

The virtues of Creeping Raspberry are many.  It requires little maintenance, is disease and pest-resistant, attracts butterflies, is unattractive to deer and rabbits, and is drought tolerant once established.  Creeping Raspberry is hardy in USDA climate zones 6 through 10.  It thrives in full sun and partial shade.  It tolerates sandy to clay soil with pH ranging from slightly acid to slightly alkaline.

Creeping Raspberry does not tolerate foot traffic.  Winter weather can damage the foliage a bit, but early spring trimming should restore its beauty.

Begin by taking a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  For a small fee, they can run a lab test and tell you what your soil may need.

Prepare the planting bed for Creeping Raspberry by cultivating at least 6" deep, removing all traces of weeds. Compacted soil should be cultivated to 12" deep. I should add here that "cultivate" does not necessarily mean "roto-till."  I maintain that "roto-tilling" exposes weed seeds which can germinate and cause future problems.  But having said that, it may be necessary to till compacted soil to make it workable. 

Creeping Raspberry likes well-drained soil, so add enough soil to raise the bed about 4" above the surrounding ground level. Composted manure may be incorporated into the soil.  Fertilizer may be used. If you choose to do so, incorporate 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of no more 2 lbs. per 100 square feet into the top 4" to 6" of soil. Avoid synthetic fertilizers contacting any part of your plants.

Plant Creeping Raspberry 18" to 24" apart. Dig planting holes into the cultivated soil a little less deep than the depth of the growing container.  Water the plants in their pots.  Place the plants into the holes and back-fill, watering as you go. Press soil around the roots. Do not cover the top of the root mass with soil. The tops should be slightly exposed.

Add a top-dressing of mulch around the plants, not on top of them, about 2" deep.  The mulch helps retain soil moisture, so you can water less frequently.  It also helps suppress weeds.

Irrigate when necessary, but allow the soil to dry between watering.  Keep the planting bed weed-free until the ground cover begins to suppress weed growth on its own.

This is a lovely plant with a lot going for it.  You should definitely find a place for it in your edible landscape.

What is a scaffold limb?

What is a scaffold limb?

Looking up the definition at Dictionary.com, I found one that could that apply: any raised framework.

The plant (shrub, tree or vine) scaffold consists of the largest, strongest limbs or branches which form the main structure of the plant. In some of my blog articles and Youtube videos, I point out the importance of training a strong scaffold, beginning while the plant is very young. A strong and properly trained scaffold will allow the plant to withstand wind, snow loads, and fruit with minimal limb breakage.

Here are four examples:


Prunus persica (peach)


Vitis rotundifolia (Muscadine grape vine)


Acer palmatum var. dissectum 'Tamukeyama' (Japanese maple)


Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia)

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FAQ: What garden tasks should I be doing in January?

Among the most frequently asked questions, "When is the best time to...", is near the top of the list. Because some of the information is pertinent to backyard fruit growers, I'm posting this at Backyard Fruit Guide as well as goGardenNow blog. Here are a few gardening tasks for January organized by region.

Northeast States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines. Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid limb damage. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones.
Mid-Atlantic States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed.

Mid-South States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Feed house plants, and inspect them for insects and disease and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Lower South and Gulf States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance.Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees.  Continue planting and transplanting broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials and ground covers. Continue to irrigate shrubs and trees as long as weather is above freezing. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't done it yet. Maintain house plants and check to make sure foliage doesn't come into contact with cold window glass and drafts. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, asparagus for later delivery. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

Plains and Rocky Mountain States: Follow the same regimen as for Northeast States.

Pacific Southwest and Desert States: Follow regimen for Lower South and Gulf States.

Pacific Northwest States: Prune dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, vines.  Mow ground covers to maintain neat appearance. Begin spraying dormant oil on dormant fruit trees. Fertilize trees and shrubs when dormant, if you haven't already. Remove snow from evergreens to avoid damage. Maintain house plants. Refill bird bath. Refill bird feeders often. Browse seed catalogs and nursery web sites. Order spring flowering bulbs, onion sets, strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus for later delivery. Check bulbs and roots in cool storage; throw out rotten ones. Add mulch to planting beds, if needed. Take soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Adjust pH, if necessary.

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Community Poll: Where do you turn for gardening information?

poll by twiigs.com

FAQ: When can I dig muscadine grape vines?

I have a chance to get cuttings/plants from an abandoned muscadine/scuppernong vineyard. It has been abandoned for possibly 10 years or more, and is all grown over with trees and brambles. The people who owned and worked it are gone now, and half of the vineyard has been plowed under, and is now in soybeans. What a waste. Anyway, what is the best way for me to get cuttings/dig up plants/ or whatever?

 If you can find rooted plants now, this would be the time to pull them. Keep the roots moist from digging until planting. You might find vines growing along the ground that are rooted in two or three places. Cutting behind each set of roots is fine. Vines are usually propagated by layering, so if you find vines on the ground that have rooted, you've simply found vines that have layered themselves and done that part of the job for you.

John J Marshall
goGardenNow.com

John also blogs at goGardenNow.blogspot.com.